The arch is painted dove-grey, against the yellowish brick and the pale sky. Beneath it, the tarmac fades into the cobbles of the little cut-through to Arcade Street. The wall next to the grey arch is a dusty, eggy blue, a shade more faded than a beach hut. The wall makes no pretence at grandeur nor any hints at navies or universities. Smile at this corner of the town smiling at you in the cold sunshine.